Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Car Problems With Sub Zero Temps

Extreme cold be hard on anything -- including your car.

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The Arctic Circle may not be getting any closer to most of the planet, but try telling that to the people who must endure northernmost climes on a regular basis. For them, the words "bone-chilling cold" fall far short of describing the metal-shattering extremes of mid-winter. While few autos on Earth can bear the brunt of all that mother nature can dish out, it's best to know what will happen to the typical auto during those deepest of deep freezes.

Related Searches: The Nature of Hot and Cold

Absolute zero: It's more than just negative 459.6 degrees F. It's the black hole of thermodynamics, a sort of bizarro world where atomic movement ceases, metals pass electricity with infinite efficiency, and frozen gases become quantum super fluids. To simplify, think back on Newton's Laws of Inertia; objects in motion will tend to stay in motion, while stationary objects will resist motion. If you reduce movement at an atomic scale, then any kinetic energy that impacts the cold object will unevenly transfer its energy to the object; atoms near the impact will try to move to absorb the energy but will smack into the stationary ones. The result is a loss of atomic cohesion and shattering of the object.

Rubber and Synthetic Rubber

Rubbers materials are some of the first to suffer in the intense cold. By definition, they depend on molecular flexibility and elasticity to do their jobs. They do this by cross-linking long chains of "coiled" molecules into a matrix called a polymer. Think of it as a cargo net made out of a bunch of very long Slinky toys instead of rope. Once atomic movement slows down, those coils will resist uncoiling and snapping back into place. Rubber will start to grow progressively harder until about negative 20 degrees, when it may retain elasticity comparable to PVC plastic. Prolonged exposure to temperatures like these will break enough of the polymer chains to permanently damage the rubber. Around negative 60, rubber has lost almost all of its flexibility and is one sharp impact away from cracking or shattering.

Metal

Metal's crystalline structure causes it to react to extreme cold a bit differently than rubber. Spring-steel components will progressively lose their springiness down to a temperature determined by the specific alloy composition, generally becoming brittle enough to snap at somewhere near negative 60 degrees. Harder structural and bolt steels, which by nature are already more brittle than spring steels, will tend to snap at higher temperatures. Frame cracking is a well-known problem among heavy haulers that run the ice roads of Canada and Alaska, where temperatures may not see anything higher than negative 10 for months. Metal also contracts when it gets cold, which increases clearances between components and can cause fasteners to literally fall out of their holes. Leaking seals and coolant lines, excess bearing clearances and breakage between gears made of different metals are just a few of the many other resulting problems.

Fluids

Russia's winter may make it an unpleasant place to be most of the time, but it's also saved the country on more than one occasion. The arctic nation's brutal winter all but froze Hitler's mechanized invasion in its tracks -- literally. German crews wrote much about having to build nightly fires beneath their vehicles' engines to keep the oil from freezing, which would have begun around 0 degrees. Typical automotive antifreeze is good to about negative 40 before it freezes solid, but that probably won't matter below about negative 20 anyway. Fuel's vaporization rate and volatility decrease with temperature, which is why you can smell a gas station two blocks away in the summer. At sub-zero temperatures approaching minus 20, fuel may lose so much of its volatility that you might as well run water through the motor for all the good it'll do.

Batteries

Batteries are finicky things, like little ecosystems themselves. They're engineered to strike a balance between going completely inactive and exploding, and those extremes are almost entirely dependent on the battery's temperature. Average battery amperage capacity and output drops by about 20 percent at 32 degrees, and it drops to about 50 percent at between zero and negative 20. By negative 40, the battery is effectively dead or likely incapable of overcoming the resistance of the syrup-like oil in your crankcase.

Tire Pressure

Keep a close eye on your tire pressures if you do manage to get the car started; air, like metal, contracts as it cools. The rule of thumb is a 1 psi drop for every 10 degrees. So, if you put 25 pounds in the tire in your 80-degree garage, pressure will likely drop to about 15 psi at negative 20 degrees.

ReferencesRace Car Engineering and Mechanics; Paul Van ValkenburghThe Mechanics of Materials; Gere and TimoshenkoThe Defense Technical Information Center: US Army Developmental Test Command Operations Procedure; Cold Regions, Material EffectsPhoto Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty ImagesRead Next:

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How to Troubleshoot an Oil Leak in the Air Cleaner of a Harley Davidson

Maintain the proper oil level to avoid damaing your Harley-Davidson's engine.

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The presence of oil leaking out from your Harley-Davidson's air cleaner is the first symptom of a condition called "blowby", which allows the pressure generated within the engine's combustion chamber to blow past the pistons. This pressure forces oil out of the engine crankcase and into the air cleaner. Blowby affects the engine's ability to compress air and fuel to create the combustive force needed to operate. However, a similar oil leak can occur if the motorcycle's oil tank is overfilled. While the second cause is not as harmful, it can cause blowby if it is not quickly dealt with.

Related Searches:Difficulty:Moderately ChallengingInstructions Things You'll NeedHand pump5/8-inch spark plug socketSocket wrenchCompression gaugeSAE 20W-50 motorcycle-grade engine oilTorque wrenchSuggest EditsOil Level Check1

Start the engine and let it idle in place for three minutes to allow the engine oil to warm in the oil tank. Stop the engine, then let the oil settle for five minutes.

2

Check the oil level, using the dipstick attached to the oil tank. If the oil level is above the upper mark on the dipstick, the oil tank is overfilled. The oil tank has a vent tube that leads into the engine crankcase, where it will eventually be blown into the air cleaner through a separate breather tube.

3

Drain out the excess oil, using a hand pump, until the oil level is situated between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick.

Compression Testing1

Remove the spark plugs from both engine cylinders, using a 5/8-inch spark plug socket and a socket wrench. Push the spark plugs into the spark plug cables, then ground the spark plug electrodes against the engine cylinders to avoid damaging the ignition coil.

2

Screw a compression gauge into the front cylinder spark plug hole. Twist the throttle grip into a completely open position. Turn the ignition on and press the starter button to build up pressure in the front cylinder. Release the starter button once the compression gauge needle no longer moves. Ideally, the gauge should indicate a minimum of compression of 125 psi. Remove the spark plug and pour a half-ounce of SAE 20W-50 motorcycle-grade engine oil into the cylinder then retest the cylinder's compression, if the cylinder compression is less than 125 psi.

If the compression reading increases, the piston rings and the cylinder must be overhauled since the piston can no longer maintain a seal against the cylinder wall.

3

Unscrew the compression gauge and place it in the rear engine cylinder. Check the cylinder's compression, using the same method.

4

Screw the spark plugs into the engine cylinders and tighten them to 18 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench.

Tips & Warnings

A loss of compression in one or both engine cylinders will show other symptoms as well, including a loss of power, oil-burning and spark plug fouling.

Do not operate the motorcycle's starter without grounding the spark plugs against the engine or the motorcycle's frame. Turning the engine over without grounding the spark plugs will damage the motorcycle's ignition system.

Keep the oil level below the dipstick's upper mark to avoid the possibility of excess oil to be pulled into the engine and out into the air cleaner. Oil blown into the air cleaner through overfilling will eventually be pulled into the engine, where it will be burnt and turn into carbon deposits on the cylinder wall. The deposits will cause excessive wear on the piston rings, creating the possibility of blowby.

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ReferencesThe Professional Motorcycle Repair Program: Lubrication and Cooling Systems, Volume 5; Professional Career Development InstituteThe Professional Motorcycle Repair Program: Four-Stroke Internal-Combustion Engines, Volume 5; Professional Career Development InstituteThe Professional Motorcycle Repair Program: Harley-Davidson Maintenance, Volume 23; Professional Career Development InstituteThe Professional Motorcycle Repair Program: Four-Stroke Engine Top-End Inspection, Volume 14; Professional Career Development InstituteHarley-Davidson Service Manual: Touring Models; Harley-Davidson Motor CompanyResourcesMotorcycle Cruiser: Understanding Blow-By in Motorcycle EnginesPhoto Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty ImagesRead Next:

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How Do I Tell If I Have an Early 1930 Vintage Hubley Cast Iron Harley Davidson Motorcycle?

Replicating the details of a Harley's engine was a Hubley specialty.

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Realistic, colorful and pretty much unbreakable, cast-iron toys were popular and affordable in the not so distant past. The premier manufacturer of such toys was The Hubley Manufacturing Company, founded in 1894 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania by John Hubley. Exclusive rights to produce toy versions of Harley-Davidson motorcycles was awarded to the factory in the late 1920s. By the 1930s, Hubley was the leading manufacturer of such toys in the United States. Even Popeye rode a Hubley-made Harley during the '30s. Reproductions are often passed off as genuine, but there are methods of checking for an authentic cast-iron Hubley motorcycle.

Related Searches:Difficulty:Moderately EasyInstructions Things You'll NeedMagnifying glassSuggest Edits1

Examine the engine for detail; by the 1930s they were clearly identifiable as a V-twin of that era because the factory had access to Harley-Davidson model specifications and photos. Casting marks, if any, were filed off by hand, so there should be no evidence of mechanical grinding.

2

Check the rider or movable pieces for fit and alignment. Although they were removable, the figures included with each motorcycle were specifically designed to fit the piece. There will also be an absence of noticeable gaps between seams if the piece is original.

3

Locate the Hubley manufacturer's mark on the toy. Some were stamped on the toy's body or the tires, which were made of white rubber or smooth metal, as Hubley MFG co or HUBLEY MFG co. Tires were not painted black and treads were not stamped into metal tires until after 1942.

4

Feel the metal surfaces for smoothness; vintage Hubley toys were cast in molds using fine sand and should have a satiny finish. Pitting and surface blemishes indicate modern casting techniques and grinding marks indicate the use of power tools, an obvious reproduction technique.

5

Check the locations of worn areas on the paint. Reproductions are purposely distressed to appear vintage, but many "wear" marks are on areas of the toy a child would not have repeatedly touched during regular handling. Sandpaper marks are also evidence the toy is not authentic.

Tips & Warnings

Always have a professional appraiser examine a Hubley toy Harley-Davidson for authentication before purchasing an item.

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ReferencesToy Collector Magazine; Hubley: Cast A Giant Shadow ; Tom HoepfAntique Toy Collections: Hubley - A Harley-Davidson Toy MotorcycleResourcesMoto-Mini: Toy Motorcycle Virtual Museum - HubleyPhoto Credit Oli Scarff/Getty Images News/Getty ImagesRead Next:

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Ford Tailgate History

Print this articleFord was a leader in station wagon design and innovations, including the power window tailgate and dual-way tailgate. Ford’s woodie station wagons in the 1940s are pop culture icons popularized by early 1960s surf music, but the wagon reached its zenith in sales with Baby Boomers attracted to features like faux wood paneling, larger window space in the rear, the sporty compact Futura and the high-end Country Squire.

Related Searches: Background

The station wagon derived from depot hacks dating before World War I, although bodies were custom built. Hacks had open bodies usually with a cargo space in the rear. Early station wagon designs can be found in custom-built Model Ts through 1927. After the redesigned Model A arrived in 1928, the ranch wagon began to emerge. The ranch wagon was a barebones vehicle with body-on-frame construction, wood-paneled sides and tailgate, and canvas roof.

The Woodie

Ford, like most automakers, farmed out its bodywork to custom houses to build its woodie station wagons. It wasn’t until 1941 that Ford built its V-8 DeLuxe woodie wagon in-house. Depending on the make, model and year, Ford used ash, maple, birch and mahogany to panel its station wagons. Ford began producing wood-bodied wagons in 1929. The tailgate featured a steel frame paneled in wood. It was a conventional fold-down tailgate with no window. Instead, it provided a canvas tarp fastened to the roof and unhooked at the top of the tailgate. By 1937, Ford employed all-steel construction on all closed bodied station wagons. The tailgate featured ash or maple wood paneling and had two latches to unhook and fold down. The transom lifted upwards and featured wide flat glass. As late as 1949, Ford kept the wood-paneled tailgate, But it turned to an all-steel tailgate and transom by 1951, the last year of the woodie.

1950s

The model year 1957 was a milestone year for tailgate design. Ford developed the spring-loaded transom for easy one-handed lifting. The window was wider, stretching 45.7 inches from rear pillar to pillar. Ford’s Mercury division offered as standard equipment on its Mercury station wagons an electric-controlled rear window operated by the turn of the key in the tailgate lock or by remote from the driver’s side. Standard on the regular Ford models was an “easy-opening” tailgate that the operator could open with one hand like the transom. Edsels used different sheet metal for its tailgates and special trim, including weatherstripping.

Later Years

Compact station wagons such as the Futura and Falcon dominated the 1960s with the Fairlane serving the mid-size market, and the Country Squire the full-size niche. An electric tailgate was available as an option on the Falcon, Fairlane and Futura. It cost $29.75, or $214 in 2010, although it was standard equipment on the Country Squire. The option price for the power tailgate rose to $32, or $218 in 2010 dollars in 1965. The tailgates were smart and understated with the model name stretched across the back with no other adornments. Buyers could order faux wood paneling. The big news, however, was Ford’s dual action tailgate introduced in 1966. The tailgate folded down as a conventional tailgate or it could swing open as a door. This made loading, unloading, and ingress and egress more manageable. The 1970s brought few changes to the tailgate with the exception of the hatchback styles found on the Taurus wagons. By the 1980s, station wagons fell out of favor and made way for minivans.

ReferencesStation Wagon: A Short History of Station Wagons in the USAPack Automotive Museum: FordPack Automotive Museum: FordOld Woodies: 1946 FordSmithsonian’s History Explorer: 1955 Ford Country Squire Station WagonGoogle Books: Popular Science, February 1957Hemmings: 1960 Ford Station WagonASWOA: History of the Ford Falcon Station WagonGoogle Books: American Station Wagons: The Golden Era 1950-1975 by Norm MortGoogle Books: Standard Catalog of Ford by John GunnellRead Next:

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The History of Dodge Intrepids

The second generation Intrepid returned Dodge to NASCAR.

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The first generation Dodge Intrepid was introduced in 1993. It was a full-size sedan, and replaced the Dynasty and Monaco as Dodge’s largest four-door sedan. As a front-wheel drive sedan, some of its engine properties were common to the 300M sedans, Chrysler Concord, the Chrysler New Yorker and other Chrysler models. The early efforts of auto designer Kevin Verduyn introduced the aerodynamic design for which the Dodge Intrepid would eventually become known.

Related Searches: Design Background

Verduyn’s idea was to increase the amount of available passenger space by moving the wheel placements as far away from center as possible. His first design of this concept was called the Navajo. The new look was very exciting; the aerodynamic, cab-forward design attracted a lot of attention. Although never mass produced, when Chrysler acquired Lamborghini, the exterior Navajo design was adapted to become the Lamborghini Portofino. The cab-forward design was distinguished by an elongated, low profile windshield, and was so groundbreaking that the “The New York Times” called the design “...a pronounced shift in auto design."

Design Execution

Active design of the cab-forward concept began in the late 1980s. As the design cycle progressed, designers decided to mount the 3.3-liter pushrod V-6 engine in-line for front-wheel drive. Although this engine placement reflected the new attitude demonstrated by the cab-forward idea, some felt that the power plant should have produced more than 153 horsepower. A pushrod is found in an overhead-valve engine, and is one piece of the linkage necessary to open and close the valves.

Background - First Generation

The 1992 North American International Auto Show was the venue for the introduction of the first generation Dodge Intrepid. Two trim levels were available for the Intrepid - the base and the sportier ES. Standard on all Intrepids were driver and passenger airbags, a four-speed automatic transmission and air conditioning. Options included antilock brakes and a larger 3.5-liter single overhead cam engine. The ES was better equipped, adding 16 inch wheels with premium tires, and four-wheel disc brakes.

Background - Second Generation 1998 - 2004

The Intrepid was redesigned from scratch in 1998. The new, sleeker styling struck a positive cord with potential customers. A DOHC 2.7-liter, 200 horsepower V-6 was standard for base models, and the ES standard engine was a SOHC 3.2-liter, 225 horsepower V-6. Added for the second generation was a top-of-the-line model called the R/T. The main feature of the R/T was a new incarnation of the 3.5-liter V-6, which put out 242 horsepower.

The Dodge Intrepid Retirement

The R/T was discontinued in 2003. Replacing the R/T was the new SXT model, which kept the R/T engine, but increased to 250 horsepower. Although Chrysler felt that the new SXT would generate new excitement in the Intrepid, such was not the case. In mid-2003 Chrysler saw the market for the Intrepid evaporating, and the Intrepid was retired in 2004.

References"The New York Times"; DRIVING SMART; What's the Big Deal About 'Cab Forward' Cars?; Jeffrey J. Taras; December 1994Edmunds.com: Dodge Intrepid Review"Car and Driver"; Dodge Intrepid NASCAR Racer, Larry Webster; October 2004"Cars.com"; 1993 Dodge Intrepid; George Moore, October 1992AutoEducation.com: Push RodResources"Car and Driver"; Dodge Intrepid R/T; Frank Marcus; June 2000Photo Credit Donald Miralle/Getty Images Sport/Getty ImagesRead Next:

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